A guide to self reliant living
 
Build a mini-Conestoga Bug-Out Trailer

The idea of having a small trailer to pack full of survival gear for a "bug-out" appeals to many people.  Who knows when an evacuation may be needed for any number of causes?  Those first out when the need arises often beats the rush, and that can mean survival or being stuck in a traffic jam on a freeway, going nowhere and facing whatever caused the evacuation to be faced in perhaps the worst conditions possible.

The actual building of such a trailer can seam daunting.  It really is not that hard. The actual construction can take place over time using regular tools, paying cash for the materials as needed so there is no huge cash outlay all at once.

The frame for the trailer can be a small 4 x 6 foot utility trailer such as those sold at big box stores.  It is possible to get lucky and find a small trailer really cheap.  That is what found.  The trailer I got for free was just a frame with too short of a tongue, only 3 cross-members, 8" wheels, and 3 1/2 feet wide.  But it was a good beginning.

In designing a trailer, remember wind resistance: for towing, the less wind resistance, the greater the tow vehicle's fuel mileage.  And with a typical small vehicle these days having only a 4 cylinder engine, the least wind resistance possible translates into much easier towing ability.

Here is the frame for my trailer after adding 3 more cross-members.  Metal bed rails are strong enough and can be found for free at metal recyclers or the local sanitary landfill.  My trailer had a short 4 foot long tongue.  That I replace with an 8' piece of 2" square tubing, 0.180" thickness. To ease later construction, the trailer hitch is installed and wiring (see below) threaded through the tongue before the bed is attached.

Most small utility trailers are supplied with 8" wheels.  They are too small.  I purchased 12" wheels.  You can see the difference in the photo at right.  Also see the frame with only 3 cross-members and compare it to the photo above as modified with 3 more cross-members.  All construction will take place with the 8" wheels on the axles.  When complete the 12" wheels can be installed.  The 12" wheels can also be balanced.

 

At right is the frame for the bed of my trailer.  The rectangular section is 6' 6' long - the length of a common air mattress.  The V-nose section is 3' 4" long for a 38 degree V.  I used pressure treated 2 x 4's and 1/2" plywood.  The plywood was screwed and glued to one side. Screws, not nails.  Nails can back out.  Every surface of the wood except the top was painted so glue would adhere properly, than plywood glued and screwed to the surface shown at right.  Painted wood lasts at least 10 times longer than unpainted, even if not seen, so it is worth the trouble.

The bed is set upon the frame, then the tongue weight measured using a bathroom scale.  Slide the bed back or forward to achieve about a 50 pound tongue weight.  When the framing and siding are installed the tongue weight will be about 80 to 100 pounds, ideal for towing. Once positioned, I used carriage bolts to secure the bed to the frame and cross-members. I wanted a flat floor, so first the holes for the carriage bolts were countersunk using a 3/4" Forstner bit wood drill.  After bolting the bed to the frame, I filled the space around the carriage bolt heads with a paste mix of Elmer's Wood Glue and sawdust.  That mix takes two days to dry.  Then it is sanded smooth with a belt sander.  After painting it is impossible to see where the bolts are located!  Presto, a perfectly flat floor.

 

At right is a photo of the V-nose framing.  I used 4 foot high 2 x 2's for the framing.  A shelf was built to add rigidity to the nose.  Note that the sidewalls of the nose extend back one foot into the straight sides.  When covered with a piece of 1/2" plywood, the sidewalls are tied into the nose section, adding rigidity to the sidewalls. The remaining uncovered top section can be left as is or a cover can be made from 2 x 2's and 1/4" plywood.  Add a back door and the trailer is virtually waterproof and lockable.

The photo at right must be enlarged to see details clearly.  Look at the near side and you will see three studs side-by-side.  The opposite sides have two studs with a spacing between them.  That center stud pivots on a bolt at the bottom and swings parallel to the bed, locking into place in the gap on the other side.  That prevents items inside the trailer from sliding forward or backward when under tow.  There are three of those braces, one at the rear, one at the front, and one marked with the pivot. Also notice all the tie-down eye-bolts.

Here the framing is complete.  The 1/2" plywood top over the V-nose extends back a foot onto the sidewalls.  The front of the V-nose is 2" lower than the back to shed rainwater and lower wind resistance. Note the construction strapping to add additional strength to the sidewalls.

`

Wiring for trailer tail lights is first threaded through 5/8" clear vinyl hose, then put through the tongue, before the bed is bolted on.  It's easier that way.  Then the wiring can be ignored until the framing is complete.  For my trailer I purchased LED taillights because they use very little electricity.  Even a small car with a 4 cyl. engine will have a large enough generator to use the trailer lights without draining the battery on long trips at night.

The photo at right shows the wiring coming up through the bed and stapled to the stud walls.  Here I used 5/16" clear vinyl tubing because only half the wires go to each side.  With this system the wires from plug-in on the vehicle to the taillights are all encased in vinyl tubing.  Trailers bounce and vibrate, but with wiring encased in tubing there is nothing for the wires to rub against to break or short out.

 

The photo at right shows all but one piece of exterior skin applied.  All of the wood was painted except where wood that would be glued to other wood.  The sidewalls are cut to accept the fenders.  The screws used to fasten the 1/4" plywood to the studs were countersunk.  Then the holes are caulked and sanded smooth.

Here is the body with 1/4" plywood sidewall skin painted.  Now the fenders can be installed, and the new 12" wheels.  Trim can now be added, such as tie-down hooks.  The taillights can be installed.  The trailer can then be used.  I'm going to add a cover, hinged at the front, and a back door.  Then the trailer can be locked up as well as being virtually wind and water-proof.

The trailer can be used for general hauling purposes or packed with camping and bug-out supplies.  If left empty for general purpose trailer use, all the bug-out gear can be stored in sealed plastic buckets stored nearby, ready for quickly packing into the trailer and a fast getaway.  If kept in ready-to-go condition, the trailer should be jacked up and short blocks placed under the axle close to each wheel.  Be sure to check tire pressure every six months or so. When needed, the trailer can simply be jerked off the blocks and towed away. 

Home Built Items & Essential Skills