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SURVIVAL PLANT AND
ANIMAL BREEDING
by FARMERIK in
Connecticut More garden photos,
information, and
seeds at Farmerik's
Seed for Security
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SHIPPING SEEDS NOW!
Be ready to plant seed for your security! We want to grow the very best animal or plant we can,
adapted to our own needs. Miles has a perfect example of how to breed
early string beans for his location here.
With vegetables, an early large crop is usually the best eating, and
what you will want to be preserving also. You want to have enough to
fill your drying racks, dehydrator, or canning kettle FULL several
times. Our pressure and water bath canners are the common size, and take
7 quarts or 10 pints in each batch. An excellent canning guide came with
our pressure canner from Lehman's
Hardware, and there are great books available to guide you, but the
USDA recommendations for canning times have been made safer, so use
information that is from recent years.
You may also want varieties that bear over a long
period of time, so you can simply pick and eat them fresh. You will
really get to appreciate this after you have put up a lot of food. It is
common to plant several different kinds of sweet corn at the same time
that have maturity dates at least 10 days apart, so they won't cross
pollinate.
You can also work with a single variety that can be
planted every two weeks to stagger the harvest. Maybe just one variety
that bears over a longer period of time. That makes three different
breeding goals you might choose, just for corn. Some varieties will
mature 3 or more good ears from a single stalk. You select the ears that
were the best for your goal, and let them fully mature. At my hilltop
farm, I have to avoid corn that blows over easily. With the wet Fall
weather I have, I prefer to dry corn seed in a dehydrator, but keep the
temperature low, probably less than 110 degrees. Leave it on the cob,
which will draw moisture from the kernels, and it's easier to shell
after it's dry. The average yield for sweet corn ranges from 1 to 3 good
saleable ears, per foot of row. I have been able to approach 4 ears/foot
with Golden Bantam and Country Gentleman after only a couple years of
seed saving. Either of these can also be grown to full maturity, and
ground into flour. But the much larger field corn varieties produce a
lot more. My favorite dent field corn variety now is Krugs, but flint
corn varieties make better flour, so you may want one of those. For
Spring greens like lettuce and spinach, you want to collect seed from
the last plants to bolt [go to seed].
Miles has an excellent description about
saving seeds from the pumpkin and squash
families of seeds. They are closely enough related, to cross with each
other in certain combinations. Some vegetables produce seed the second
year, and are called biennials. These include the cabbage family,
carrots and parsnips, onions, beets and others.
If you have a laying flock, you can improve it the
same way, by choosing the biggest eggs from the best layers. The next
step up, is to put your best layers individual pens, so you can compare
them. It's not really fair to compare birds of different ages. A chicken
lays an egg every so many hours, around 23 to 32 when they are young.
Once the hens are used to their new cages, count and weigh the eggs
daily, and in a couple weeks, you will find your breeding stock. For
roosters, I look for a protective one, who is not mean. If you have a
group of young cockerels together, one will become the boss. He will
often be to aggressive, it's the second and third ones after him I
choose from. As soon as they start fighting, its time to cull them out.
The rooster is half your flock, genetically, so by introducing one from
a variety known for your breeding goal it goes much faster. It is much
more efficient to hatch eggs in an incubator, and you certainly don't
want all your hens to go broody at once, so the instinct to set on eggs
has been bred out of most varieties.
Smaller versions of older breeds, called Bantams, are
less likely to have this bred out, and the hatchery will identify others
that may set. When the broody hen gets up to eat, you can replace her
eggs with the ones you have saved. The smaller Bantam eggs are easy to
spot and remove. Don't put more eggs under her than she is big enough to
cover. They act as a surrogate mother, and are not genetically related
at all. Breeds that lay white eggs are usually more efficient at
converting feed to eggs, but they are not as hardy. Brown egg layers are
sold as combination breeds, good for both meat and eggs. You can
crossbreed them.
The old varieties like Rhode Island Reds, New
Hampshire's, and Wyandotte's, are excellent to work with, and I like a
sex linked cross called Comet too. A sex linked cross produces chicks
that are easier to tell if they are hens or roosters, which is a big
money saver to a hatchery. A skilled person can tell by carefully
examining each hatchling, but that costs more. I tell you this only
because it helps explain the price differences you will see when you
order. The newest commercial varieties need very high protein feed and
antibiotics to survive, and are not suitable for a survival flock, or
anything else in my opinion.
Although most people refrigerate eggs, they keep for
a month or two in a cool room, with an EVEN temperature. They keep
better unwashed, as long as they are clean. They should be cooled to
storage temperature, and if needed, washed [then dried] with a mild soap
that rinses easily, like is used for hand washing of dairy utensils, or
a special egg wash from a farm supply catalog or store. An insulated
picnic ice chest is a good place. Move it to the root cellar in hot
weather. Eggs saved for hatching under a broody hen, or in an incubator,
should not be refrigerated. An occasional egg will spoil early, so when
you are cooking, break into a separate cup, to check them. If this
bothers you, or you are selling them, you can candle the eggs to inspect
them before eating. While commercial hatcheries offer stock from
recognized breeds, you can cross them, and make your own better
one.-FARMERIK

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