1. Located an adequate distance
from potential target areas;
2. Located an adequate distance
from a potential fallout source (I use general terms because of the
vast array of variables affecting an individual situation - size of
bomb, prevailing ground and high-altitude winds, terrain, etc. It is
safest to base your calculations on a "worst-case scenario.);
3. Reasonable remote from the
city, but not inaccessible;
4. Access to an all-year road to
make winter residency possible;
5. Enough acreage to ensure
privacy;
6. Enough altitude to provide a
contrast from the surrounding desert heat;
7. Wooded, or with access to a
wood supply;
8. Access to a continuous,
uncontaminated water supply;
9. Defensible;
10. Affordable land with
reasonable terms; and
11. Availability of contractor
and local labor.
Unlike some survivalists, we
never seriously considered settling into a "survival" community,
assuming that the unprepared majority in such a group would pose a
burden or a threat to the few who make the decisions, and that
maintaining the necessary degree of privacy and security would be too
difficult. Therefore we chose a shelter program oriented to a family
or small group.
We found our ideal location on
the western slope of the Rockies within less than a day’s drive from
our city residence. Incredible as it sounds, each of the requirements
was met - we even had a view and a stream!
Determined to do it right this
time, my wife and I carefully considered the following guidelines in
planning the layout of our second home and shelter:
1. The shelter should be easily
accessible through the basement - either integrated into it or dug
back into the hill as with our Midwestern cottage.
2. The shelter must be shielded
with the highest possible Protection Factor (PF), even though it was
in a light fallout area. Targets have a nasty way of developing in
unpredictable spots.
3. The shelter should be as dry,
warm, efficiently arranged and cheerful as possible to manage, given
its solid concrete construction.
4. All pipes, drains, intakes,
exhausts and wiring must be positioned for optimum efficiency, and
extra wall-openings should be provided for unforeseen uses.
5. The two outside
corner-basement walls should be coated with ½ inch of mortar, two
layers of waterproof paint, tar and 2-inch sheets of polyurethane for
insulation (check your local lumber yard for exact specs and preferred
coating sequence). Drains along outside walls of the basement and
shelter and under the floor must be installed, as well as floor and
sink drains. Pea gravel would be used for backfill to facilitate
drainage (perforated plastic pipes would also do the job), taking care
that no trash would be backfilled.
6. A continuous, inexhaustible,
uncontaminated water supply should lead into the shelter.
7. Shelter heating may be tied
in with the regular home heating system.
8. The shelter entrance must be
baffled to prevent entry of gamma rays.
9. A decontamination area is
essential, including an area for storing and washing contaminated
clothing.
10. An unfailing supply of clean
air, filtered of chemicals and dust, must be provided.
11. The shelter must be supplied
with propane gas.
12. A source of stand-by
electricity must be available.
13. A flush toilet, connected to
the home septic system, should be installed.
14. Shelter design must be
flexible to allow various areas to serve different functions at
different times - food preparation, eating, sleeping, communication,
hygiene, decontamination, etc.
15. Storage space for the
clothing and personal items of eight people must be arranged
accessibly and efficiently.
16. Extra storage space must be
provided with shelving along several walls.
17. The kitchen should be
organized with sink, counter and cupboards.
18. Provision should be made, if
possible, for refrigerating food.
19. The inside shelter walls
should be treated acoustically.
20. Several levels and types of
lighting must be installed.
21. The shelter entryway must be
secured with a locked, tamper-proof door.
22. The shelter must have
normal-height ceilings (7 feet, 6 inches).
23. To allow for increased
movement in times of decreasing radiation danger, other areas of the
basement outside the shelter should be accessible.
24. Most food should be stored
outside the shelter, but in the basement.
25. The outer basement should be
secured with steel-plated doors and any windows eliminated; its
ceiling must be heavily insulated to prevent heat loss into the rest
of the house.
26. All utility pipes and
circuits serving the outer basement should be powered independently of
the upper part of the house.
27. A wood-burning stove and
covered wood storage area should be in the outer basement.
28. If possible, the basement
should be included in the defense plan.
29. During normal times,
communication should be possible throughout the entire home; in
emergencies, from inside the shelter to those outside the home.
30. Battery operation of all
shelter communications equipment during emergencies will ensure
continued radio transmission and reception.
We were lucky to find a
reliable, local contractor who tolerantly agreed to go along with our
"fantasy." In the summer of 1969 we moved the family to a natural
campsite along the river, which we hurriedly provided with a septic
tank and electricity. This enabled my wife and me to supervise closely
every step of the building process.
All of the above guidelines -
and more - were incorporated before we ended up with what we wanted
and needed. And we are still upgrading and refining as new ideas
occur.