AUTO MOTOR HEATER INSTRUCTIONS
From the 1940's through the 1960's, "Sports Heater Company" of Denver produced little kerosene heaters to heat engine blocks during cold weather. The auto motor heaters were sold under a wide variety of names, but I suspect Bunsen in Denver actually made them all. Used properly, these little heaters can be used to heat a greenhouse, pump house or small building.
Over time, the instructions for how to use these heaters became lost, but the auto motor heaters themselves can often be found at garage sales and on eBay. So, I give you the original instructions that came with the heaters. Instead of scanning the 6 point type on the instructions, I have typed them...at least they will be readable. Click on the images to see a larger version.
Below the factory instructions are my notes - they are important!
UNPACKING: After unpacking, remove screen (#10) by turning to right. Fasten bail or hanger (#9) in eyelets on screen retainer (#3). Fill with best grade water white kerosene to 1/2" below filler cap (#2).
LIGHTING: At each lighting, remove screen (#10). Apply one tablespoon full of denatured alcohol to Primer Wick (#6). Replace screen (#10) and light by inserting match in lighting gate (#5). Kerosene can be used for priming (if alcohol is unavailable). IF kerosene is used, the primer wick must be lit with Screen (#10) off and Screen MUST NOT BE REPLACED until primer wick is entirely BURNED OUT.
ADJUSTING FLAME: After priming alcohol has burned off, adjust flame by opening filler cap (#2) until flame rises just over the round baffle on top of inner shell (#8). Flame adjustment is controlled by quantity of air passing thru holes in filler cap (#2). When flame is properly adjusted, mark filler cap so that future adjustments can be made instantly.
PLACING HEATER IN CAR: Attach asbestos sheet (#11) by slipping over hook of bail (#9). Hang heater to cross bar under hood if convenient. If not, place in LEVEL position.
TO EXTINGUISH: Remove heater and place snuffer can over screen (#10). Leave snuffer can on screen until next lighting.
TO REPLACE WICK: If wick becomes carbonized, remove screen (#10), inner shell (#8), and outer shell (#7). Remove wick assembly by lifting out burner head (#4). Loosen hard carbon on wick by scratching with pointed instrument. This will lengthen life of wick temporarily. THE TOP OF THE WICK SHOULD BE FLUSH WITH WICK CONTAINER TUBE AT ALL TIMES. If wick cannot be brought up flush with wick container tube, we recommend purchase of a new wick.
TO USE AS EMERGENCY ROAD FLARE: Remove screen (#10) and inner shell assembly (#8),. Light center wick.
KEEP HEATER UPRIGHT AT ALL TIMES
CAUTION: If kerosene splashes thru burner head and soaks primer wick the heater will smoke and soot up. (If primer wick should get soaked with kerosene, remove screen, light primer wick and allow it to burn completely out.) Screen must be free of soot at all times.
If screen is punctured in any way, the burner is not fireproof until screen is replaced with new one.
DO NOT ALLOW HEATER TO BURN COMPLETELY OUT OF FUEL. THIS ACTUALLY BURNS THE WICK, DESTROYING IT OR SHORTENING ITS LIFE.
COVER HOOD AND RADIATOR WITH BLANKET OR TARPAULIN to prevent heat from escaping. (You can't heat a room with the windows open.)
Do not be alarmed if heater smokes on first burning. The preserving oil must burn off the screen, lasts only two minutes and is non-recurring.
IF HEATER BURNS IMPROPERLY, DO NOT LIGHT IT AGAIN UNTIL:
1. Carbon has been scraped from wick (#4). It is vitally important that wick is flush with opening in metal wick container if perfect combustion is to be obtained. If in scraping the carbon the wick is slightly below the wick container, the unit will function temporarily. A new wick assembly should be installed as soon as possible.
2. All soot and carbon have been removed from shells (#7) and (#8) and burner head (#4).
3. Screen (#10) has been thoroughly cleaned. (The proper air mixture will not feed through a dirty screen.)
4. Shells (#7) and (#8) are properly seated.
THEN LIGHT AND THE HEATER IS AS GOOD AS NEW
TO ASSEMBLE BURNER HEAD
1. Insert Wick assembly (#4) in Oil Reservoir (#1).
2. Seat Outer Shell (#7).
3. Seat Inner Shell Assembly (#8).
NOTES FROM MILES STAIR
The Primer Wick (#4) mentioned above. The one pictured above left is an original factory replacement, two thin strips of asbestos stapled together at the ends forming a circle approximately 2 1/2" in diameter using 7 1/2" strips of asbestos. The Primer Wick on the right I made using thicker and stronger asbestos. Nothing other than asbestos will work for this job, as asbestos is an absorbent mineral and will not burn. Asbestos dust can be hazardous to your health, so handle carefully.
Auto Motor Primer Wick, asbestos. I take no responsibility for the use of asbestos. Auto Motor Primer Wick, each $7.95
The Asbestos Heat Deflector (#11 above) was not available from the factory after the 1950's, and is almost never found today. Keep the heater at least one foot below any painted surfaces or anything combustible.
The wicks used for Auto Motor Heaters were 3/4" diameter, solid cotton wicking. I am trying to obtain this wicking so it will be available at my Wick Shop.
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